Winter Commuting in the Snow
Since winter
riding season is almost behind us I'm covering both riding in snow
and dressing for it.
Many, maybe even most otherwise avid bicycle commuters and riders
in general hang up their bikes or retreat to their basement trainers
when winter sets in. Winter commuting and riding in general can be
comfortable, fun, and relatively safe if you are well prepared and
know the basics. When I began winter commuting I felt a little like I
was re-inventing the wheel; so much trial and error. Coats that were
too heavy or that didn't breathe, gloves that weren't warm enough,
overdressing in general and underlayers that didn't wick well. Bit by
bit I've gotten it figured out and now am quite comfortable in nearly
all conditions.
The Layers
Dress for 10-15 minutes into your ride, unless that's all the
longer your commute is, in which case you can throw another layer on.
Always wear a wicking underlayer. It can be synthetic, wool or silk,
but not cotton as that will keep dampness next to your skin and you
can become chilled. You will probably need a light insulating layer,
wool or fleece, but don't overdo it. Whether you wear a base layer
under your pants is up to you. I prefer a wind shell, which I can
get out of quickly upon arrival as I seldom have an opportunity to
change clothes when arriving at work. This is useful for keeping
road spray off as well. Fenders can't keep all of it off your lower
legs and shoes, though they are a big help. Some commuters wouldn't
go out without an underlayer on the legs, but I overheat in them.
Your jacket should be a wind and moisture barrier, but also breathe.
I paid more for mine than I imagined that I would, but it's been
worth every penny.
The Hands
I have very cold sensitive hands. For
me, this was what would keep me off my bike before anything else,
until I figured it out. Bar Mitts have made all the difference for
me, but others with less sensitive hands might do well with lobster
claws or other serious mittens.I wear wool liners followed by some
very insulated back-country gloves, all inside the Bar Mitts. That
takes me into subzero temps with little problem.
The Feet
I live in wool socks in winter. Pair them with warm shoes, not
too tight, until that's no longer enough, then add shoe covers, or go
to insulated boots. Shoe covers run small, so get them larger than
you think you should need, especially if you have to get them off or
on in a hurry. What ever shoe or boot you use, it's essential that
the soles grip the pedals well even in wet situations.
The Neck
The first thing you may notice as you get underway is cold air
leakage around your wrists, neck, and ankles. Take a minute to make
sure these crucial areas aren't making you lose any heat before you
want to. You'll need to check that any scarf or zipper at your neck
is easily loosened. I get quite heated up, If I'm snow plowing or
have a lot of cargo on my heavy mountain bike with low inflation, I'm
soon wanting to regulate my temperature.
The Face
For face comfort, I prefer a half-face mask with ample ventilation
and a nose vent. Anything else is hard for me to breathe through
freely, or gets so swampy it freezes to my face. At a certain point
your eyes begin tearing or just get excessively cold, more so when the
windchill gets down there.. I finally went to ski goggles, but you
just need something that's not tinted for riding in dim light, and that doesn't
fog.
The Head
Finally don't forget your brain bucket. Your helmet is even more
crucial in winter conditions. I use a thin, fleecy liner cap that
fits under my helmet and covers my ears, speaking of which, if your
ears get too cold, save the earrings for after you get to work, as
metal is very efficient at conducting cold.
Conditions
Riding on snow can be a lot of fun, I
find it similar to gravel, but it requires extra attention and
alertness. You will need to move more slowly as stopping, starting
and turning takes more time. I have laid my bike down slamming on
the brakes over a thin film of snow. Be especially aware of the
loose gray-tan snow on side streets, it's similar to loose gravel and
you will fishtail. When conditions are snowy or icy I take out my
mountain bike with knobby tires at a low inflation, and so far I've
not had too much trouble. I'm tempted by studded tires, but haven't
gotten them yet. Do remember to clean that salty, slushy mess off of
your bike, your chain will thank you.
Lights
If you are setting out or arriving in
the dark or in dim light, make sure you have very bright front and
tail lights, and that you have reflective additions to your gear and
bike. Motorists may not be expecting you, so you have to work to be
seen. If you are one of the many cycling fashionistas, make safety beautiful.
Routes
Lincoln is generally good about keeping trails clear, though a
weekend snowfall may not get cleared before Monday morning. If you
are lucky enough to have a trail commute, enjoy. If you are forced
to take streets, be choosy. Residential streets don't get cleared
soon enough for some commuters and you may have to take sidewalks.
In this case you'll learn who shovels their sidewalk and who doesn't.
Almost no one clears curb cuts in a timely manner. (I've been tempted
to carry a portable shovel) I have had to take major streets due to a
lack of options, but it can be the least safe choice. Sometimes snow
is piled on adjoining paths by snow removal equipment, so check
alternate routes.
Don't let the idea that you will be too cold keep you from giving
winter riding a try. I tell people it 's a little like shoveling
snow, in terms of heat generated, and nothing like standing around or
even walking. Keep an open mind, pay attention to the basics, and
give it a try! You may wonder why you ever put the bike away.